Depth Charge

This piece reminds me of one the scariest moments in my surfing life. Eager to embrace the power of the ocean, I stood at the water's edge. The waves surging with energy, crashing against the rocks. As I plunged into the sea and paddled out, a colossal wave emerged on the horizon, crashing and engulfing me in a torrent of whitewash. Helplessly pulled underwater, I fought against the relentless force, lungs burning for air. Tumbled upside down time and time again, doing underwater cartwheels my limbs flailing helplessly. Time seemed to stand still as I battled the powerful current pulling me deeper and deeper, my strength waning. Just as hope began to waver, a surge of adrenaline fuelled my...View all