Defeat

Pushing boundaries comes at a price and the ocean will always make you pay. This is the day that I was truly humbled. I had let myself fall into a comfort zone in a place that was unforgiving. In a lapse of judgement, I decided to shoot an angle that only a handful have tried and even less, have succeeded at. I failed. I fell early on the wave and was at the mercy of one of the biggest swells I had ever captured. The violence of this wipeout was nothing I had experience before. It felt like my head was in a vice and my limbs were being torn apart. All I wanted to do was scream. I had an inflation vest with 2 canisters that I released to help bring me to the surface. What felt like a life...View all