My traveling companions were tucked snuggly into their tents on the beach in Dar es Salaam, but I had spent the night outside trying to find coolness in the sand. The food on the train had made me ill and I was still feverish and dizzy as the night broke into the day. I saw a parade of shadowy silhouettes gliding silently across the shallow water and was unsure exactly what they were. As the sun began to show itself, I could see the outlines of the fishermen begin to appear. The boats passed by me one by one as the sun rose higher. I felt compelled to get a photograph, even though I could not stand up from my illness. I remember literally crawling on the beach toward the water. This drew the...